Help! I have questions that I can't find the answer to!

I bought a hobie 18 for 500 dollars that was in really good shape, I have begun refurbishing it and am almost finished I think but I have a few questions that I can't quite answer myself. 1st off, I am not sure what model of H18 I actually have, and neither did the gentleman who sold it to me (he actually thought it was a H16!). 2nd, my rudders won't seem to kick up at all, I know this isn't a huge issue, but it IS huge for convenience and I imagine getting it out of the water. And lastly, I am not sure how to run my ropes through the rigging at the back (please excuse my terminology, but that is how clueless I am right now) I'm not sure how if I should use 1, 2 or all 3 of those things! Here are some pictures of my boat, and any advice you guys could give me will be much appreciated.

There are two ways to rig it, with one sheet or two.

I use one and here is how i do it.
The line running out of the mainsheet should then run back through the cleat mounted on the rear beam (traveler cleat) then through the little eye, after that it should run out to the traveler and through the rollers on it, then tie it off to the stainless bar at the back.

Then your mainsheet should attach to the traveler.

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Nacra 5.2 "Elsies"
Hobie 14T, "Blazin" I guess I am keeping her!

here a link to the manual that has most if not all the answers you are looking for.

http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/H18&SX_Manual.pdf

First off the year of your 18 will be the last two digits in serial number on the transom (back) of your hulls,this will help with what model you have .
If the hulls have wings(a framed seat that extends outboard on each hull)it could be a magnum or SX ,otherwise it looks like a standard h18 to me. The chrome triangular piece with the hole that is anchored to the croobar is the deadeye and the end point of your mainsheet.Once your mainsheet is threaded through the blocks and the clamcleats you thread the end of the rope through the swivel cleat (also mounted to cross bar)then through the traveler car fairlead and finally through the deadeye and knot the end of the rope.Usually when I put my 18 on the trl I untie end of rope at deadeye and
pull the traveler to the starboard end of traveler track where it will slide out.That way I can leave my block assy.attached to the boom intact,put it in a small sail bag to protect it.Saves time when setting up.Rudder kickup is adjustable with screw.Get ahold of a setup manual if you cant find on I can fax you a copy of mine.
Shawn h18 #8211 [email protected]

Regarding your rudder kick-up: From the photo’s you have the Old Style rudder castings. This has an aluminum locking cams. There is an upgrade kit available that replaces both upper and lower rudder casting, gudgeons, tiller extensions and the lockdown/kickup cams. It costs $500+ . Or you can find a set of used rudder casting from a boat that is being parted out. I have also have the Old Style rudder castings/lockdowns. You can change the lock/kickup spring pressure by adjusting the screw from the buttom of the casting. Also use a good marine grease on the locking cam and it should release more easily. I do suggest to ALWAYS unlock and raise the rudders manually before beaching (if you have the opportunity). Search the forum. I had similar questions when I first got my boat. Check the links below:

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=5736&highlight=style+rudder+casting

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=5198&highlight=style+rudder+casting

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John Latimer
'79 Hobie18 - Magnum
Sail#4854

I noticed that your trapeze rigging could use some attention,you should swap the dogbones with the caribeeners.it will be far easier to get trapped up and most importantly untrapped with the handle area the dogbone gives you.just my opinion,hope that helps,forgot to say in my other posting that
the lower block assy(sheet) attatches to the top of the traveler car,when everything is setup right the traveler should slide side to side with the sheet loose ,you should have at least 4ft of slack in the line.Or you can use a seperate line to control the traveler only,I have used both ,less lines to deal with when you use mainsheet as the traveler line also.
shawn

Thanks you guys, I can't tell you enough how much your tips help.

Go look up on the Hobie site or the Beachcats website for some new traveler balls. It looks like you will need new ones. Get the slugs from Hobie and the balls aftermarket. Stephan in CO will set you up with the balls.

Good luck & enjoy.

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1989 Hobie 18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker
1987 Hobie Holder 20 #273

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net

Welcome to the club! Please go here and download the Hobie 18 assembly manual. I noticed your forestay doesn't have a furler and the forestay connection looks horribly incorrect. We want you to enjoy your new boat safely.

There is a Hobie fleet at Lake Maumelle in Little Rock located here: http://www.div14.hobieclass.com/default ... 0856/3323/
Any of these guys will be able to help you out.

Yea, there are some things that need to be addressed before sailing this boat.

- Get the forestay/bridal system figured out. Either get a roller-furler, or copy a Hobie 16 set-up. The furler is not necessary to sail, but the system you have doesn't look good at all from the picture.

- All the shrouds and the shroud anchor pins should be replaced unless the seller can tell you when they were last replaced.

- It would be a good idea to get the hull reinforcing kit for the front crossbar - to - hull connection. It's a standard kit available in the hobie catalogue. Call a dealer if you can't figure out what it is.

- Mainsheet, traveler, and trapeze wire systems (as well as pretty much anything else) can be sorted out by downloading the Hobie 18 manual from the Hobie web site.

A few tips regarding the rudders:
- Get stainless steel rudder pins (if they aren't already).
- Get the upgraded gudgeons (you have the old style).
- You can either upgrade to the new-style rudder castings (which cost as much as your boat) so the rudders kick up easily, or you can make the old style work reasonably well by doing a few things.
1) Grease the aluminum cam and roller that holds the upper rudder casting down.
2) Loosen the hold-down spring so that the upper casting just barely latches.
3) Use bungee cord wrapped around the rudder and rudder pin to hold the rudder down.

That's all I can think of for now.

sm