Tobbera wrote:
I have a H18SX without combtip.
Not a factory mast you don't. ALL SX mast from Hobie have a comptip as part of their lawsuit settlement that begun before the SX went into production. A regular 18 mast can however be found still without a comptip. Following are the steps/issues to converting to a Tiger mast.
Issue--Cost--a new Tiger mast is pretty pricey, and used ones are very rare. Most totaled Tigers I found had a totaled mast or no mast at all.
Issue--The Tiger is 6 inches wider than an 18. The hounds are a foot plus higher on the mast than an SX and even more than an 18. Net result, Tiger shrouds and forstay are too long, 18 and 18SX shrouds and forstay are too short. Net result, take boat and mast to rigger to have it measured for new custom rigging. Not really a cost issue but another step none the less.
As for the base there are two options here.
Easy way--Remove the mast base from the Tiger and install the mast base from the 18. Some people say the profiles are different and that it will not work, they are wrong. I have seen it work. The upside to this is simplicity. The down side is you lose the three sheaves at the base of the Tiger mast for the downhaul. Not that you have to have them, your 18 didn't, but they come in handy when you are trying to get that 16:1 downhaul ratio that you will need to depower this beast.
The harder way--Change the step on the front crossbar. This is the way I went. The change over isn't hard but requires a little bit of money. Forget about getting Tiger dolphin striker post and what not because in the US they don't exist as parts. Instead use factory Hobie 20 parts here. You will need the dolphin striker post, the two nuts and washers, the step ball, and the compression sleave. All of these parts are available here and the part numbers can be found in the back of the hobie catalog. To make the swap, loosen your dolphin striker on both side as far as you can go with removing the lock nuts. Drill out the two - four rivets on the mast base (depending on your year model). The base and the dolphin post will not both lift off of the cross bar. The compression sleave requires a 7/8 hole in the front crossbar, drill the top hole only. Using lock tight on the nut install the lower nut and washer and slide the bar up from the underneath the cross bar. The post should be firmly in the receptical still on the striker rod and the lower nut should be firm against the bottom of the cross bar. Drop the compression sleave in from the top, and yes, it is too long but don't mark and cut yet. Tighten both sides of the dolphin striker. I have mine so there is about a half inch of thread showing past the nut on each side. You will not notice the compression sleave is now sticking even higher up out of the crossbar. This is because the crossbar is bowing up slightly (don't go overboard here). Mark the sheave so you can cut it to length. You crossbar is curved for and aft so it will not be a straight cut. Undo everything you have just done and remove the sleave from the crossbar. The easiest way to shape this is to cut with a hacksaw at the highest point and the file it down to your line. The sleave is aluminum so it files rather quickly. If you have a power post sander I am sure it would make even quicker work of this but did it by hand. reinstall and tighten the striker untill the sleave is flush. Using thread locker install the top washer and nut. Now screw on the mast step ball and you are done. Remember, the Tiger post and H20 post are the same with the exception of the threads. You cannot use a Tiger ball on the 20 step or vise versa. After the rigging is made you are done. Enjoy your lighter/stronger mast and forget about ever racing one design with Hobies again. I guess that could be a reason to use the first method, you can change mast and sails to race one design or at nationals.
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