Brand new owner of 18 magnum with LOTS of questions

Living in the Sarasota, FL area for 20+ years and finally bought a boat. It is in great condition (including the original sails) but had been largely disassembled for transport from another state. I actually put it in the water last weekend and had a ball. But I don't think I have everything quite right yet.

1) What purpose does the pulley on the jib halyard serve? Is it supposed to fit inside the zippered luff pocket because it doesn't?

2) How is the downhaul supposed to work? The picture in the pdf is useless as it is SO washed out but it appears to have 2 pulleys on each side of the gooseneck and I only have them on the left. What is the bottom one for?

3) Mine has a "Cheetah" (I think) motor mount on the rear crossbar. Has anyone here used one of these/have diagrams?

4) Does anyone know anything about the Sarasota Sailing Squadron? Are there other clubs in the area, particularly in Manatee county?

Thanks, I hope I haven't imposed.

(Also posting on the stepping thread below)

The older boats had a pulley on the jib halyard. The purpose being to make it easier to tighten the halyard and to reduce wear on the halyard. The pulley is intended to go inside the jib zipper luff (along with the entire jib halyard assembly). However, it can be a pain to get the pulley to fit into the luff opening. Hobie doesn't include the pulley in the halyard assembly anymore, most likely because it is a pain and it really doesn't do anything. If you're having trouble with the pulley, cut it off and throw it away.

Many sailors upgrade the downhaul to have more purchase than the original 3:1, and also to have swivel blocks at the base of the mast for easier adjustment. Without seeing exaclty what you have, it's hard to know the best way to rig your setup. If you have strictly stock components, I believe the rigging is as follows: Tie off at the grommet on tack of the sail, go down through the pulley on the side of the mast, back up through the sail grommet, and finally down to the cleat on the other side of the mast.

sm

I was thinking about just replacing the jib halyard altogether. What about rigging the pulley from the halyard to the clew and going 5-1?

Also if you get a chance take a look at the stepping thread right below. I moved my stepping question there and I'd really like some feedback on that issue.

John

>>What about rigging the pulley from the halyard to the clew and going 5-1?

It took me a minute to figure out that you are refering to the main downhaul here (it's actually the tack not the clew). I don't think using the halyard pulley would work well at all. First off, you'd have to unthread the main halyard each time you rig. And more importantly, the main halyard pulley isn't aligned properly for the downhaul.

A much better solution would be to purchase a small cheek block to mount to the mast. Harken makes very nice small (and large) cheek-blocks that would be perfect and probably costs less than $20. You also have to be aware that if you increase the purchase significantly, you will need to mount pulleys to the tack grommet on the sail, otherwise the friction of the downhaul line passing through the grommet several times will negate any additional purchase.


As far as stepping the mast, I am able to raise it by hand, so I don't use any winch, etc. Personally, I think the easiest (and probably the safest) way to raise the mast is with two people if you're unable to do it yourself. You can also prop the tip of the mast up on a ladder if necessary to help get it started. Both people lift until the mast is up. Once it's up, one person pins the forestay. This is how we've always done it and haven't broken a mast hinge in over 20 years of sailing 18s.

sm

OK. The main block that attaches to the traveler car has cam cleats. But there is a pivoting set of cam cleats with a guide mounted in the middle of the rear crossbar.

I have read and re read the pdf manual and it makes no sense to me. It seems to say to feed the sheet through both cam cleats. How would you ever kick the second set loose? The pictures don't include the center mounted cams/guide.

Here's my guess; You feed the loose end of the sheet through the center set and attach it to the traveler somehow to control the traveer from one end and the sheet from the other. but the pic makes it look like there's some 2/1 connection that doesn't seem to work symmetrically.

Some pics and explanations would sure help

The cleat mounted on the rear cross bar is called a Swivel Jam Cleat.
The cleat mounted on the lower main blocks is also a Jam cleat.
Confusing.

First, look at this,

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=883&highlight=h18+mainsheet&sid=a70411b00a13515db9b5dfadac144475

Then, unhook the lower mainsheet block from the traveler car.
Line up the mainsheet block, the Swivel Jam cleat, and the traveler on the centre line of the H18.
Take the mainsheet, and working from FRONT TO BACK, (or bow to stern if your prefer), where it exits the mainsheet block jam cleat, and lead it through the swivel jam cleat, through the centre of the traveler, through the hole in the stainless steel bar mounted to the rear of the rear cross bar (another deadeye.) Tie off with a figure eight knot. Re-attach the mainsheet blocks to the traveler.
Test and try it on dry land.

Then, from one of my earlier posts : "While there is always the 'possibility that the traveler car can fly off the end of the track' I suggest it is unlikely if the cat is properly set up. In 1992, I had the disgraceful honour of exploding a H16 traveller during an emergency gybe in strong winds. One of those adventures we'd rather not talk about. Lucky the Club patrol boat (power) was nearby to rescue us.

Then we all learnt - measure carefully, and tie a figure 8 knot in the mainsheet (between the mainsheet blocks and the traveler car sheaves) such that the traveler does not quite reach the end of the track, both for port and starboard side. Check and test it. We've never had traveler problems since then."

Happy rigging.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

I've got it now.

Your explanation was flawless!

The stainless fitting was apparently retrofitted onto a Cheetah motor mount and I thought it was part of that. (It's still in essentially the same spot and will work fine.) Also the "pulleys" on the traveler car were frozen and had to be lubricated to get them to turn. I'll probably remove, inspect, and either clean or replace them before I go out again.

Your idea of putting a safety knot on the sheet to protect the traveler is clever as well. Depending on the cleats is fine but the the sheet has to be in the cleats for that to work. Great tip! Thanks for sharing.

Also on the downhaul there are a few aftermarket upgrades out there from 5:1 all the way to 8:1 from Murrays in carpinteria ca.The 5:1 is a straight replacement that requires no drilling for about 140,the 8:1 are a bit more pricy and require mounting a bracket to the lower mast that carries swivel clamcleats and cheek blocks for about 240.There are some very knowlegable folks out here that also have designed their own cascading setups on previous postings.hope this helps.by the way thats www.murrays.com
shawn
82 h18 #8211
div3 fleet281 and fleet2

After 20+ years of UV rays and the neighbor kid figuring out how to pop them in and out (and in and out and ...) my old rope handle inspection ports are cracked and there are a couple of loose rivets so they need to be replaced. The new style screw on ports come with rivets and silicone sealant like the old ones although the rivet holes are a tad more widely spaced. I figured I'd fill in the old holes with a two part plumbers putty, rotate the new ports 30 degrees and drill new holes but the guy at the shop recommended tossing the rivets and using 3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealant. I like the idea of not putting more holes in the boat but don't know if it will affect the hull's strength. Also if I shoot the rivets should i put a backing washer so the rivet's not crunching directly on the glass. Also I'm assuming I can just drill the old rivets out or is there a safer technique?

Second question. I told the guy at the shop that I wanted to be able to right the boat solo. He recommended shroud extenders and a bungee righting system. There is an extra "keeper" cable that comes with the extenders to hold the mast on the step while the shroud is extended. The directions read something like "attach one end of the cable at one side of the diamond wire tang as shown in the picture, run the cable behind the dolphin post and and attach the other end to the other side like the first one". Problem is ... there is no picture. And no additional hardware. After looking at the diamond wires I have come to the conclusion that the only way to attach it is to take the turnbuckle apart, thread one end through the loop in the keeper cable and reassemble the turnbuckle and retention the diamond. As I trailer in and out and step the mast each time that is going to be a real pain in the dupa. Any suggestions? Shorten the cable and use clevises? Also will that keeper affect mast rotation?

Last question. I also bought a bungee righting system. The instructions for that imply that it kind of runs around the outside of the boat and then between the the rudder gudgeon pins and the hull. I'm 6'2" but I don't think I can stand on the lower hull and reach something on top of the upper. When you need to reach it you are supposed to go to the back of the hull and grab it near the rudder. My limited (because I was only stupid enough to do it once) experience tells me that if you stand near the back of the lower hull you will cartwheel the boat. I suppose you could tie a short rope on each side but those would end up dragging in the water most of the time. Suggestions?

Thanks for reading.

John

_________________
The ox is slow but the earth is patient

The screw-in ports are better than the old style pop-in ports. I did just what you mentioned, rotate the cap so that you can drill new holes. The area where the ports connect is just solid glass (no sandwich), so a rivet would probaly work- definitely use a back-up washer. However, I prefer to use a stainless machine screw with washer and lock nut (number 10 I think).

Regarding righting. Personally, I don't like the idea of the shroud extenders, even with the keeper wire, I'd be nervous of the mast base popping off. I would think that the wire is going to limit your mast rotation too. I would either use a righting bag or a righting pole. As far as the righting line goes, for the past several years I have been using just a big line tied to the dolphin striker and thrown over the hull. I don't like the bungee return systems because you're always leaning against a springy bungee cord.

sm

If you are 6'2", and have the weight and strength to go with it, you problem is going to be light wind and flat water. By that I mean in wind under 5 knots and on flat water, you CANNOT raise the H18 by yourself after a capsize. You will need help lifting the tip of the mast out of the water.

Once the wind and the wave action pick up a bit, with a rope (or line) tied to the dolphin striker, standing on a daggerboard, 'time' the swells or the waves, get the tip of the mast out of the water, and the boat will come up. You need to be a lot more careful of the boat flipping over the other way, (as you are solo) so be ready to grab onto that dolphin striker bar.

Fellow members at our club (check out ) have those shroud extender things. My own view: great idea, a bit too complex for every day righting. I am also a bit nervous about re-attaching the shroud after capsize, especially in rough seas.

The rope works best, the bungee also works, but some folks don't like the stretchiness, they find that hard to do the 'timing' thing. Do be sure and wear good gloves.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

I saw a trick that someone in New Mexico had developed ... he has a special paddle that he sticks in the daggerboard trunk from below that he stands on and is able to right the boats by himself. "Branzilla" was suppose to get back to me w/ details of exactly the method used.

Harry

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

Regarding sailing the 18 Solo and righting after a capsize:

I recently purchased the mama-bob and power righting pole. I'm also going to drill out, silicone caulk, and re-rivet the top mast casting to make it waterproof. Can a person using these two aids, flip the boat solo? Do I also need the elastic cord that is being discussed here in this topic?

I've never capsized any hobie, but is there a danger of getting clobbered by the airborne hull when the boat flips?

Thanks for any advice.

yes

_________________
Bodhisatfa

As the boat comes upright, it will tend to pass a point of no return where you feel the upper hull now coming down under it's own weight. At this point, you reach up and grab the dolphin striker in the middle and hold on to it with both hands. Doing this helps to insure that your head and body are well away from the upper hull. It also helps in preventing the boat from flipping back over the other way (an up-and-over).

sm