Line Manaagement for newbies

I've been sailing my 18 for a little bit now and I find myself getting tangled in lines scattered all over the tramp. Actually there are only the 2 sheets and they are not actually tangled with each other but as I tack/jibe and move about they end up wrapped around my arms and legs. Is there a system to this or is it just experience.

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The ox is slow but the earth is patient

There's nothing really that can be done, lines are constantly moving around and keeping them clear is just a continuous process. Keep the mainsheet piled up in the back so it doesn't scatter all over the tramp.

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Tiger 947/2364

Welcome to the What To Do With Main Sheet Club. Members experience the following:
1. it washes overboard
2. it blows overboard
3. it bumps overboard
4. it tangles itself
5. it wraps around the traveler
6. it slides down the tramp when flying a hull
7. it gets caught under your feet and around your leg when trapped out
8. it seems to have a mutinous mind of its own

We all have these problems with the main sheet. I, too, would be interested to read how others have managed them. I just tough it out.

Suggestions to avoid 'spaghetti on the tramp'.

1. BTW, this is not class legal. Shorten up your jib sheets by installing pig-tails on the jib. Remove the jib clew blocks from the clew of the jib. take four feet (4') of line lighter than the jib sheet, so that there is a 2' piece on each of port and starboad side of the clew, and secure this line to the clew. I did it the simple way by tying a bowline at the 2' mark, using the clew plate. Then take the loose ends, run them through the fairlead on the jib clew blocks and tie a figure 8 knot or something stronger to your satisfaction. This now allows you to shorten up your jib sheet by 4 x 2', or a total of 8', which = less clutter. Email me offline at lunnjohn at magma dot ca and I can send you pix.

2. Buy a Mainsheet Overboard Preventer, #2067, (or make one yourself from shadecloth), which does prevent the mainsheet from dropping through in between the two halves of the tramp. We love ours.

3. Sail smoother, concentrate on being very gentle with your weight transfers, gentleness on the tiller, gentleness on sheeting in. The smoother you sail, the quieter (and faster) the H18 will go.

4. Tie 1/8th bungee cord from the outer corners of the front cross bar to the lower attachment point of the diamond wires, forming an inverted V. Lead the jib sheets on TOP of the V. This also helps prevent tangles. Again, email me, and I'll gladly send pix.

5. Tie 1/8th bungee cord to the lower loop of one jib block, then through the hole in the tramp, then UNDERNEATH the tramp to the other hole, up through the hold to the lower loop of the other jib block. Make the bungee cord snug. This helps keep the blocks vertical, and helps prevent jib sheets and main sheets from wrapping themselves around the blocks. Yes, I have pictures/diagrams.

Our water temp is still around 38F, far too cold to do anything yet.

Oh, one more thing, practice, practice, practice.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Crews job.I am always on my crew about controlling the loose end of the mainsheet.

John,

What's NOT class legal about 1.?

Just curious

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Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
sailflatlands at gmail dot com

You'd only have a net loss of 4 feet, 2 per side. After adding the new line, and sheeting in to make up for the slack, you add 2 feet per side to the tramp. Cut off 4 feet from each side and you get a net loss of 4 feet, 2 per side. You could just cut 2 feet off each line to begin with

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Tiger 947/2364

There is nothing in the IHCA class rules that doesn't allow pig tails to be attached to the jib, in fact this is what almost all boats have done in nationals for the past 5-10 years.

I personally have pig tails on my jib and they are about 1' long, it also prevents over sheeting.

From the 18's class rules:

Live and learn, thanks Matt B.
I seem to recall a Forum posting of about three (?) years ago where either Doug H17 or Matt M said they were not class legal. Not that I race, nor that I know the rules. Now we know.

Can anyone post pictures of their pigtail set up?

thanks

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Yes John, you have stumbled upon one of the few rule changes that has been allowed on the H18. I origonally made jib pigtails out of an old jib halyard ... MISTAKE!!! Scratched the dickens out of my mast!!! I now use Spectra/Dynema/Alsteel ... 1/8"dia. I personally think "blue" spectra is faster!!! Ha Ha Ha!!! Mine are about 12"-14" long. As it doesn't matter downwind, the critical measurement is for upwind sheeting ... place your jib traveler car where your jib has the proper sheeting angle/sail shape ... on my boat it is about 2/3 the way aft ... now measure the length from the clew to the jib block allowing/leaving maybe 6" of jibsheet line ... that should give you a good estimate for jib pigtails. Also verify that if you move your jib traveler cars forward you can furl the jib COMPLETELY!!! This important. At night I tie a piece of small line around the jib through the jib clew plate to prevent the jib from coming unfurled and flogging ... possibly damaging the jib. Please note that I untie the pigtails from the Harken Micro Blocks I use when removing the sail from the boat. I use the Micro's because they are made of metal, I've had the plastic Harken block's side plates shatter in the middle of a race from "flogging/beating on the mast rendering them useless during the race!!!

Now for the Ol'Timers Trick ... 1/2"-3/4" foam pipe insulation and zip ties!!! Take two pieces maybe 5'-6' long each, installing/running them from each side towards the centerline at the grommets at the rear of the tamp ... at the center turn the foam forward up the centerline tramp lacing. for maybe 2'-3'. This helps keep the sheetlines on the tramp and from "washing" down between the lacings or over the rear crossbar. The insulation is cheap and lasts several years. I just can't find any "blue" insulation to match my tramp ... my new tramp on order is "grey" mesh which just happens to match the grey foam pipe insulation I can buy at HomeDepot/Lowes!!!

Yes, it is still a constant job of keeping the lines seperated and neat!!!

How are you making out on the repairs to your boat??? Have you gotten started yet??? Send me a PM/E-mail if you have any questions, I'll be glad to help in my limited way

Harry

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

Oh, I forgot to ask ... what is Shade Cloth??? I've never heard of it ... is it one of those Canadian things hey ....????

Harry

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

Change out the jib system to self tacking and your lines go away. Its not class legal but the class is so small in most areas that you end up racing open anyway. I can't say enough good things about this change. Its a bit pricey and complicated but worth it. Cleans up the tramp and decks like you won't believe. Also, most folks run too much main sheet. You only need enough to travel all the way out and boom to shrouds.

Self tacking jib...sounds interesting. Can you help point us to more information?

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1982 Hobie 18

Be happy with what ya got... it can always be worse!

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