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 Post subject: Trailering an Outback
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:00 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 9:38 am
Posts: 9
Location: New Jersey
I just took delivery of a 2008 Outback. I sort of converted a rowboat trailer to carry the Outback to lacal lakes in Northern NJ.

Interested in advise as to how to best tie down the Outback to the trailer. I do trailer it cockpit down and find it difficult getting it to stay put in one place even when straped down.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 4:54 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:36 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Rockford, Illinois
I use a trailer for both my Hobie kayaks and trailer them the same as you. My cross bars on the trailer have rubber on them so they don't move. If you could wrap the cross bars with a heavy rubber and fasten it on the underside of the cross bars that should stop the movement. Something like an inner tube or thicker.
Bruce

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:34 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 448
I move my kayaks between 2 different vehicles and a trailer with different tie-down arrangements. But on all of them I run a strap through the drive well to limit fore-aft movement.

Peter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 7:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 6:56 am
Posts: 822
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Hey Harvey,
Welcome to the Hobie Forum. I have been using a Trailex trailer to haul my OB and Sport for over 3 years now, and it has worked great. However, there is a kind of art form to the tie down method that was taught to me by Andy, the guy who sold me both my yaks from the Wilderness Way here in Tallahassee some years ago.

First, forget the ratchet-type tie down straps. They can put enough pressure on your yak to actually deform or damage the hull unless you are careful. Use the pressure (spring-type) buckles as you see in the below post. It is important not only to use the Mirage Drive well and/or the scupper holes, but to also have some sort of fixed central attachment point, as well as a non-skid surface (you can use pool noodle halves attached with cable ties) on which to place the yak to prevent lateral movement. The fore and aft movement is no problem if you secure at least part of one strap thru the Mirage well, or a scupper hole. Also, IMHO, transporting yaks usually works best if they are cockpit down on the cross bar or trailer frame--less chance for slippage when you hit the inevitable bump on a two-lane or back country road. This, of course, assumes that you are NOT using saddles that are designed to support the hull itself when the boat is cockpit up. Good luck. Just my $.02 worth.

http://kfs.infopop.cc/groupee/forums/a/ ... 030751/p/1

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