Jib halyard cleat

Has anyone come up with something better than the stock? Mine just doesn't hold real well. No mater how tight It is when I cleat it it always slips down to the knot.

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The ox is slow but the earth is patient

The stock/standard jam cleat is very annoying to try and use.

I use a Harken Micro Cleat, mounted on the front crossbar, about two inches to the port side of the mast.

Be sure and have the boat rigged before drilling the holes and mouonting the cleat.

Without having the boat rigged, the intuative place to mount it is on the top of the crossbar. This is the WRONG place to mount it. if you mount it there, the angle of the furling line where it enters and exits the cleat is all wrong, and it has a tendancy to come uncleated.

You want it mounted further back on the crossbar so that the angle of the mounted cleat very nearly matches the angle of the furling line.

I'd take a picture of mine and send it to you, but ::::Blush::: mine isn't mounted quite properly yet.

Also buy one of the colored plastic "straps" that goes across the top of the Micro Cleat, to keep the furling line in place in between uses.

Hope that helps.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

Are you talking about the halyard or the furler line?I am running the murrays sister clip halyard which is small diam. dyneema and my stock clam cleat on the jib holds fine but my sails are in real good shape and never left out furled.Try replacing the stock cleat if your line wont bite,the more tension it should grab more unless it is sprung open.If you are talkin furler line Stephen is correct ,I run a ronston micro 10 in out from mast and rolled back towards the tramp so it angles up in front.I did the re-drill also.
Shawn
82 h18 #8211
Div3

I sorta borrowed my jib halyard system from the Hobie 20- basically one long thin line just for raising the sail and a short, heavier line for tensioning and securing the halyard.
I keep about an 18" to 24" length of 1/8" line tied to the jib tack shackle. I raise the jib using the standard thin halyard (it's probably around 1/16" dia.). Once the jib is up, I pass the larger 1/8" line through the pulley (or thimble) on the wire end of the halyard and back down to the cleat. Then I remove the long, thin halyard, coil it and store it in the tramp pocket. The thicker line is stronger and holds better in the cleat than the stock thin line. I always securely tie it off at the cleat too.

sm

Are you referring to the jib hal cleat on the sail itself? I got confused.

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Ohhhhhh the Jib halyard.... thats completely different.......NeverrrrrrMind
(Said in my Bestest Gilda Radner Satruday Night Live voice)

The Jib Halyard,

I use the two piece joined with a sister clip system, using a wee bit thicker line on the section that stays with the boat after the jib is raised,
I Route it thru the shackle that holds the foot of the jib to the roller furler or chainplate, back up thru the eyelet at the end of the wire portion of the halyard, and then back down to the cleat.

Then I take one more trip back up to the end of the wire halyard and tie off the end with a couple of half hitches so that even if the line slips in the cleat, it doesn't slip far.

Hope that helps.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

I wanted to bump this thread because I am currently looking for a better way to cleat and uncleat the furler line. What about using a lance cleat as the 17 sport does ?

For the furler line, pretty much anything will work- Lance cleat, cam cleat, V-jam cleat- anything that holds the line secure. My boat has the old style V-jam cleat that doesn't hold worth a darn, so we end up just tieing the furler line to one of the hiking straps - works fine for us.

Since I am internet challenged, and cannot figure out how to post a D$%m picture I E-Mailed Al a picture of how I have done it. Maybe HE can post it.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

Hello Stephen and thank you for the illustration. If you can look for a way to send the illustration as an attached file I can upload it to photobucket and post it. Right now I cannot do it because I cannot find an extension for it.

Done !

Also sent one of the Jib Halyard.

Both were High Def pics, you may need to adjust resolution a bit to get them to upload to the site.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

Roller furling cleat (Courtesy of Stephen)



And cleating the Jib Halyard

I do this a bit differently and it may be easier. I use the sister clip halyard. It is 2 pieces, one short and one long. I only have a thimble on the wire, no pulley. I raise the jib with the halyard and hook the shackle to the furler adjuster. I keep a piece of 1/4" line attached to the furler adjuster, run thru an adjuster hole with knot on end. I run this 1/4" line thru the thimble on the halyard wire and down thru the jamb cleat and cleat off. I then go above the cleat and tie the 1/4" line off, holding it in the cleat and securing the bitter end. I then unclip the long halyard from the short halyard. I wrap the long halyard and store it in the tramp pocket. I wrap the short halyard and zip it in the luff. The 1/4" line stays in the cleat better than the dyneema sister clip halyard and by tying it to the adjuster its always there when I need it.

Yep, that's how I have my Jib Halyard and furling line rigged ... I use 1/8" spectra for the permenate "short" JibHalyard and 1/8' Parachute cord for the furling line and removable long Jib Halyard . Big Hint: Tie the short piece of line through the center of that small block (or around the pulley) and then tie the removable Jib Halyard "extention" to it. When you pull on the halyard, hoisting the jib, the sm block will then enter the sleave on the jib luff easily. Some people eliminate that small block and tie the short halyard directly to the wire halyard at the eye loop and the removable Jib Halyard extention same as above. I like the sm block as the radius doesn't cause the High Tech lines/spectra to fail when turning around such a small radius.

Now ... see those two clevis pins holding the bridle wires to the furler???? I've replaced them w/ SS 1/4"X20-3/4" or 1" Machine screws using Nyloc Nuts. I've lost too many clevis pins w/ Rings over the years to trust them on "standing rigging" ....

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11