jib sheet rigging?

I bought my '82 H16 torn down with a big box of piece parts. I put the boat back together using a set of jib cars with block in the jib track and separate swivel cam cleats on the front beam. But I also got what appears to be another set of one piece cam cleat and block assembly that slides into the jib track. Is one of these configurations newer or preferable over the other?

Yeop. That's what the swivel cleats on the beam were originally for and they work pretty well for that........but what you can do is use them for remote traveler controls instead.

The top right image on the first page shows the setup. I believe it would require you to use a car that has the swivel cleats. (like on the main traveler).
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/08_24-26.pdf

It depends on which ones the extra set are.


Like these? These are the OLD style. They are the root of all evil. Put them on ebay for $20.

Yep, those are the ones. Mine have fewer adjustment holes in them but otherwise they are the same.

just wondering.....why were these considered so bad????
i sail single and find them hard to un-cleat... from further back on the boat...

_________________
•Present boat -1998 Hobie 16 Solana Sails furling jib[/size]

THAT would be the reason. The angle of the jaws depended on sheet tension. They would also move a bit when trying to un-cleat... making them "hard to un-cleat".

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I loathe and despise mine. Especially after sailing someone else's boat that has the new style

I've come very close to a capsize when going forward to uncleat one because it wouldn't release. I'd love to upgrade to something better, but the girlfriend said I'm not allowed to spend any more money on the boat for a few months.

Timely thread for me since I came on today to ask about the same thing. My boat is a '77 (!) I think but I'm not sure how old my jib blocks are. They look like the picture Tri_X_Troll posted except they are upside down. They have the same adjustment system along the track, but the line is pulled down to cleat and up to uncleat.

As a result, my problem is that it is difficult to cleat them off unless you are within a couple of feet of them.

What should I replace them with? I've got a bit of cash to put into the boat but is an upgrade going to require changing the track to the "integrated track crossbar"? if that is even possible ... I'd like to avoid drilling and rivets if possible. Or maybe this is the time to learn ...

what about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :middle:us

looks like murray's has a similar set up but with an eye instead of roller fairleads. at $60 a piece seems like a better deal.

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... re_Code=MS

Interesting...the important feature I see with the roller fairlead model is the eye strap on top to dead end the jib sheet. I don't understand how the Murray's model would be rigged?

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Sheet In...Max Out
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With further research, it looks like the preferred way to do it is in this thread:

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=3863

But this would involve more parts and riveting. Maybe it's time to make the plunge. I'm just a cruiser at this point so maybe it's overkill.


Would this type of system (which allow you to adjust jib traveler with line) still work with Hobie #1075. This is a swivel cleat mounted on a car I show in the eBay link above.

Yes, but 1st, to avoid confusion, it's very important to note here that the Hobie Part #1075 is in fact what is listed on eBay (w/eyestrap to dead end the jib sheet), and NOT what you pictured from the Murray's catalogue.

Now...the difference with using this #1075 car from the diagram shown is we're moving the swivel cleat from the front beam, inboard of the traveller track, directly to the traveller track. The bungee return cord will dead end around the "position pin" (for lack of better term) of the car. Pull the spring loaded pin up and secure bungee with tight loop under the head of the pin to keep the pin up and allow free movement of the car.

That's it, simple as that. Questions?

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Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
sailflatlands at gmail dot com

Thanks for clarifying. The eBay cleats are the Hobie part 1075.

It sounds like I could buy these and always have the option to set up control of the car with line at a later time. You mentioned putting return bungee around the pin. Where would I attach the line to pull them outboard?

How much does a rivet gun cost?

Tie off to the same pin, below your bungee.

Rivet gun, a good one $45 to $60

Alternative is to attach the cheek blocks and lance cleats with S/S, self tapping screws. Unless you try to adjust the car position with your jib sheet cleated, I doubt there's enough load on the blocks or cleats to ever pull the screws out.

_________________
Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
sailflatlands at gmail dot com