Help - Some Questions on 1997 H-18SX Hulls

You mean 3/16". Right?

I would advise against installing ports with 5200. If you need to replace them down the line, you'll be in a world of hurt. Use silicone under the flange.

_________________
Sail Revolution
Join us on our new FB Page!

Hi Jeremy,

The procedure for removing rivets that Mr "WHIP" and myself have been having is a method of drilling "OFF" the rivet head then "PUNCHING" ... not drilling "OUT" the rivet. This method works where/when you are able to punch the rivet through ... now if the rivet is in a "hole" with a bottom it will not work and you need to carefully drill the rivet "OUT" ... then I usually start with a small drill bit slightly larger the the center hole in the rivet and work up to a drill bit that is the same size as the rivet. If there is a "Mandrel" (Thanks Mr WHIP for reminding me of the proper term for this part of the rivet) it's more difficult to drill out as the mandrel is of a "Harder" material then the body of the rivet ... So I use a 1/2" Titanium Drill Bit to remove ONLY the rivet head and a punch w/hammer to drive the remainder of the rivet "through/out". Note, the punch used is 3/16" dia, Ok?

Yes I know 3M 5200 is "permenate". But I got tired of having to re-seal my hull ports down every few years. The main reasons that one needs to replace the (stock) hull ports on a H18 usually are because the ring cracks/breaks or people take a screwdriver to them to pry the hull cap out and gouge the ring up and the ring is no longer water tight. If you keep the O-Ring in the hull cap lubricated w/ silicone or "Sailkote" the hull cap pops in and out easily ... no need for a screwdriver. But there is a second reason also ... the rings generally are cracked/broken when the seal between the ring and deck fails and when you "pop" the hull cap out the ring flexes and cracks, Ok. (this process in Engineering circles is called "Failure Analysis", I always try to understand WHY something broke) If you can keep the ring firmly attached to the deck surface all along the flange's surface it can not flex enough to break, IMO you would need to pull-up/break the deck also. By following these simple steps of lubricating (and keeping dirt and sand out) the hull port rings should last as long as the rest of the hull does.

Let's say you do use 3M5200, how do you remove a ring??? First I remove all the machine screws (I don't use rivets when replacing a ring) holding the ring in place. Next I take a "Extendable Blade" razor knife and carefully cut between the ring's flange a deck's surface .... then I can "pop" the ring up w/ a stiff putty knife (the same one I use for depressing the plunger for rotating my stuck rudder cams actually). The biggest issue/problem comes from if you use TOO MUCH 3M 5200 and some of it flows down inside the hull .... so only use a "thin bead" when you installing the ring. I go from screw hole to screw hole w/ a circle around each hole. I have removes several rings that I "5200'ed" so that I could reach my arms inside the hull to make various repairs.

I hope these additional details help explain what and why I'm doing what I'm doing. Keep up the "GOOD WORK" as we need more dealers like you promoting our sport.

_________________
HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

Thanks for the kind words Harry. I use a 3/16" Cobalt bit and a punch so as to not mar the hardware if I slip. Different strokes... It all does the same job. Get's people on the water!

_________________
Sail Revolution
Join us on our new FB Page!

I have been trying out some seal rings from the kayak world that seem to seal the ports up well. It looks like a foam ring but guess its some kind of neoprene. Got them from a friend who works for the wilderness systems people. I use stainless bolts and nylock nuts to attach them. Really do not like pointy screws sticking inside around the port, might tear my fatbag and drop out the beer