rudder cams sticking

I've had my '88 H21SE for ten years and have never had this problem, but now twice this week, once with each rudder. My rudder cams don't rotate up when I raise the tiller extensions to release and raise the rudders to the up position.
Also, I've had a really hard time rotating the cams by hand back up to the proper position so the rudders can be locked down.
So far I've cleaned and lubed with white lithium grease liberally and cannot see any problem. My detent spring adjusters are fused like most old ones, otherwise I could release them and spin the cams easily. That's this winter's job.
Am I doing something wrong? Are the cams just worn? And is there a trick to manually rotating the cams wihtout loosening the detent spring adjuster?

Sounds like your cams are getting old. The lip can get weak over time and bend instead of releasing. I use drylube on my cams to avoid getting sand and dirt stuck to grease. If they are stuck down the easiest way to release them is to use a screwdriver to push down on the spring loaded plunger and flip the cam up.

The hole in the middle of the cam can get elongated too, which can inhibit rotation.

_________________
Alan
'86 H16, Sail #89057

Detailed FAQ post about cams - http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=467

FAQ Cam Replacement - http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=2174

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks guys, it looks like I just need some routine part replacement on my old boat.

Replacing the cams is probably a good idea if they're at least 10 years old. Also, make sure that the rake adjuster plate on the upper rudder casting is seated fully forward when the rudders are locked down. If it is back, it can just bend the tab on the cam and slip past rather than forcing the cam to rotate (in addition to giving you sloppy rudders).

When you pull the old cam out, make sure you clean the plunger and surrounding aluminum casting to get any grease or dirt out of there.

Also, I would recommend using only a very small amount of grease and only on the contact surfaces of the cam/plunger. Large amounts of white lithium grease will just clog everything up with dirt. Otherwise use silicone or other dry lube.

For unsticking a stuck cam, I find it easiest to stick a flatblade screwdriver between the cam and the pluger to pop the cam free.

sm

Moving the cam plate forward has helped, at least on the bench. I also found all three rivets loose, replaced them. Now the whole rudder to arm assembly is tight, no rattling or slop. I'll bet it feels a lot better at the tiller. It looks like original cams, they're probably worn, the cam plates are all the way froward now. This will keep me sailing for this year, winter job to take the whole thing apart, replace the cams and deal with the fused in spring screws and the rudder rake allen adjusters, stripped out hex drives in them, they feel like plastic.
It will be nice to be able a to adjust the rudders under a bit more, the strong weather helm can get tiring at times. It will be interesting if I can feel the rudder angle change just from adjusting the cam plates.

Wintertime job:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUUA7l6fzIk

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The rudder rake adjuster screws in the lower casting are plastic. They should come out using an easy-out. Otherwise, probably just drill them out undersized and chase the threads with a tap (probably 1/4"-20).

I assume that when you adjusted the cam plate forward, you did so with the rudder down. If not, you run the risk of pushing the plate too far forward and then the cam will not lock down all the way. It's a fairly easy part to adjust, but it needs to be correct otherwise the cams will not operate properly.

If the weather helm is still too much after you've raked the rudders under as far as they'll go the only two corrective actions would be to either rake the mast forward, or re-drill the rudders so you can rake them under farther.

sm