Outback Wish List

Outback Wish List

1) I'd like to see an Outback Speedster model, slightly narrower and much longer. Say 30" beam and 18' Long. With slightly larger flippers - a real cruising machine that can increase speed and daily distance. I'll deal with the extra weight.

2) I'd like to see improvement made to make the integrity of the hull -more water proof. Whenever I am playing in the surf or encounter choppy conditions, the rear end of the Outback gets tucked into the water momentarily. This allows water to enter in the area of the Steering Cable Rivet holes. After a couple of hours of waves and fun, I have a couple of GALLONS of water in the hull. This is a definite deterent from making long open water trips. And yes, I have siliconed everything possible, including plugs, hatch covers, and mast hole to prevent water from leaking in.

3) I'd like to see bulkheads. Whatever I put in the hull of the Outback (like a sponge), it disappears into the innards of the hull and is almost impossible to find. I even tried to keep a sponge TIED inside and still struggle to pull it out because the sponge wraps around support columns. I really want decent dry storage in the Outback, because, I'd like to take the Outback on extended overnight trips.

What do you wish for?

Since I use my Outback mainly for fishing;
1) A nice hard-side cooler to fit the well behind the seat
2) A bait-tank, for the same area.
3) A good way to stow the sail while fly fishing, (there probably is one, let me know)
4) A use for the screw-in hatch under the seat, which I have already had to replace. (twice now)
5) A bag, similar to the fat-cat in the front hatch, that would fit the rear hatch.

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3/4 of the planet is covered in water. Doesn't this tell you something?

Good point Puck.

thanks, i was wondering where the water came from. i, too have noticed water in the boat after some chopy rides.


i put stuff in a mesh bag so it won't get lost in the boats interior.
the playmate cooler fits good behind the seat.
i secure the sail in the bag on the starboard side with 2 bungies.

I know it is nitpicking but I would like to see a wheel built in to the back of the kayak so one would only have to lift the front and wheel it to the beach, (like the BIC yaks) sort of like luggage. I am aware of the kayak cart but am too cheap to buy one. Only other thing is the boat fills up with water as mentioned above. These are very minor complaints compared to the hours and hours of fun associated with them. During the last kayak trip with my mirage, I went 10 hours and just under 22 miles. Try that with a standard kayak and a paddle. The mirage "pedel drive" is the best invention I have seen in a while.

If your mirage is loaded down for camping and sits heavier in the water and your only hull is now filling up with water and you are 20 miles to the next island, water may not be a minor problem. For day fun though, you are absolutely right, one hell of an invention!
I turned on a jazz station this past sunday and cranked off 18 miles in less than six hours and stopped quite a few times to take photos

This was an assumption that proved to be incorrect. Water was coming in the sailing mast tube, not the steering cable rivet holes. Inserting a rubber plug into the mast tube when not sailing eliminated gallons of water entering the hull in choppy conditions. That is one wish granted.

I would like to see outrigger and catamaran options from the factory.

A centerboard for better sailing (although the outriggers would improve this with out compromising draft)

The indeck storage needs to be improved upon by using the space were the tackle box is strapped. Get rid of the 5" under the seat one all togther.

More paddeyes. Leash it or lose it.

Antoher handle amidships.

Larger cleat.

Another cleat on the opposite side.

Deeper rod holders.

Larger behind the seat mold that would fit a standard milk crate.

Other than that it's perfect.

I would like the Hobie folks to add a tether to the drive system A coiled tether with a servicable clip bolted to the drive would help.

We get by with string tied around the forward edge of the unit and then tied to one of the forward padeyes on the outback. The forward attachment may interfere with the drive mechansim so we have to check it frequently. We have to use the bow eye on the sport.

With anecdotal evidence that these things have fallen out, sink rapidly and are difficult to recover, tethering or leashing the drive is no longer an option. Does anyone have any good tips to pass on as to where to attack a permanent tether? I would prefer to leash the device and run the line forward. If I have to remove the drive, the leash would not interfere with stowing the drive on the forward deck. If I drill a hole in the forward lug just ahead of the pully guard, that may work. Or we could use an empty hole in the adjustment area and run the tether aft. This may limit removal options unless I use stretch cord.

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Keith
Outback

kmay... This topic has been touched on in the past so you may want to do a search of archives for ideas. I made a leash for my Mirage Drive using a doggie tie-out leash I found at Petco. Cut to length and secured with a cable clamp from Home Depot. Here's a pic.

in the pic you posted (thanks) there is a hole in the body of the drive. Mine does not have one. I guess that would be an acceptable place to put a hole for the leash.

Thanks again for the leash idea.

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Keith
Outback

Now that we have read about what happens when a Mirage kayak gets a bad leak in it, does Hobie have any plans to introduce bulkheads into the hull designs?

1) or 2) Are now no longer a concern. The well behind the seat is gone on the current model. This leaves a nice flat area that accomidates almost anything.
4) The screw-in hatch has been replaced completely. Nice!
5) The drop-in storage now sold are GREAT. The cat-bag was nice, but the new storage is even better.

This only leaves number 3) Does anybody have any ideas for this?

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3/4 of the planet is covered in water. Doesn't this tell you something?

1. Adding bulkheads to the hull. I often want to go on overnight trips to the barrier islands but just don't feel secure weighting down the Outback knowing I'm only one leak from serious trouble. Speaking of leaks, I'm looking for a more leak proof hull as well. I go out in my regular kayak, with bulkheads and steering cables, in crashing waves and the bulkheads remain pretty much dry - it is the kayak I use when going camping. I know improvements have been made over the past few years in hull design. Perhaps some of you can comment if you are still getting water in the hull in the newer Outback models.

2. While the current drive unit is just fine for recreational kayakers who might take their kayak out once a month, I'd like to see a quality drive available for those who pedal their kayak more frequently using the new Turbo masts. I would gladly pay more money $$ for a higher quality drive unit with more stainless steel or titanium and less composite material. More $$ for sealed bearings on the main drum, idler assy, sprockets, and pedals. More $$ money for a quieter drive unit. More $$ money for the option to put SPD clipless pedals on the crank arms. More $$ money for an option to put on longer pedal crank arms. More $$ money for a reliable drive unit that should a underwater object be hit, the damaged (bent) mast could be quickly swapped out with a new one (quick release system of masts). (I might as well wish big...)

3. I'd like to see a little less hump where the hatch is (under the legs) so my hamstrings don't slam into the hatch (hull).

Hobie needs to know what you want - I've already seen wishes granted.

Because several folks have requested info about how to leash their drives, I thought it might be helpful to post this updated version of some earlier posts of mine.

Old cell phone cords with crimped loops in one end work nicely for rod leashes but are a little too “springyâ€

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