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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:17 pm 
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My wife and I will probably be buying two Hobie Mirage Kayaks in the near future. Possible a tandem Oasis in combo with either a solo outback or solo adventure. They would currently be transported our Subaru Impreza hatchback and in a few years a RAV4. Most trips will be within 30 minutes from home with the occasional two hour trip up north.

Our current Subaru factory rack supports up to 200 lbs. I'm guessing that I need to upgrade to a Thule or Yakima system since we will have two kayaks to transport correct? I'm assuming the kayaks would have to lay on their sides in order fit a factory car rack which would rule out the less costly route of foam blocks. After some research I was hoping to buy a rack and mounts for under $500 but would like advice when it's worth spending the extra coin in advance. I hope to use the kayaks a lot and a simple yet secure rack system will help make the whole experience more enjoyable.

Thanks for you input in advance.
Chris


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:24 am 
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I'm in the same boat (no pun intended), have a 2nd Hobie on the way and drive a small SUV. After seeing stories of racks getting ripped right out of their mounts in strong winds at highway speeds when kayaks are standing up on their sides I'd really like to avoid the J-bars or stackers, factory racks being most susceptible ...but my vehicle is a little too narrow and low for laying them side by side, ideally upside down.

I've been looking at the different Seawing/Gullwing type setups but not sure that's the way I want to go either, that's alot of hardware to leave on or to remove/install each time we take both kayaks out. I'd like to just get longer bars and lay the kayaks upside down on a noodle, better aerodynamics, and less of the rigging exposed, but with the ride height of my vehicle folks are bound to be whacking their heads into the protruding bars all the time, heck I don't want to get sued!

I'll likely end up with longer bars and cut them down to the absolute shortest length I can get away with. Now both boats only add up to 58" in my case, but with an Outback and an Oasis I doubt that will be an option for you.

Neil

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:46 pm 
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Location: Big Bear Lake&Claremont CA
Well my SUV is a little bigger than the ones you stated but not by much its a ML500 Mercedes I use 2 Yakima cross bars with a extra piece of steel pipe inside the forward crossbar I slide the steel pipe out and use this as my loading bar its a gr8 trick my Hobie dealer taught me when I was buying our 2 Yak's, I load mine on upside down and flat, no extra gizmo's just simple bars and then tie then down typically tying thru the drive well for the best security.

By the way make sure you leave the bars full length do not cut them down there will be some hag-over on the sides do not worry about this its not a big deal.

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Kayaks Owned>Outback/Mine & Revolution/Wife


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:23 am 
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Fastfish wrote:
Well my SUV is a little bigger than the ones you stated but not by much its a ML500 Mercedes I use 2 Yakima cross bars with a extra piece of steel pipe inside the forward crossbar I slide the steel pipe out and use this as my loading bar its a gr8 trick my Hobie dealer taught me when I was buying our 2 Yak's, I load mine on upside down and flat, no extra gizmo's just simple bars and then tie then down typically tying thru the drive well for the best security.

By the way make sure you leave the bars full length do not cut them down there will be some hag-over on the sides do not worry about this its not a big deal.


Thule actually have a retractable locking extendable loader bar for their older style rectangular bars, although it's a tad overpriced.

I'm curious on your technique for using the bar, do you flip the kayak first? I don't want to damage my rudders. I was thinking I might be able to put up the front with the yak right side up, assuming the extension is on the front bar, then pick up the back of the yak, and roll it over to upside down, simultaneously moving it onto the main rack. Slide to the far edge then repeat with the 2nd yak..... although the 2nd yak is just a sport so likely just literally throw that one up their.

Neil

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Location: Big Bear Lake&Claremont CA
I put a old lawn chair seat cushion on the ground b4 I start with loading I'm concerned also with damaging my equipment I flip it over 1st then load front end 1st then the back it really does work well for me as I have to handle getting both loaded and unloaded myself there other things my wife is gr8 @ this is'nt 1 one of them.

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Kayaks Owned>Outback/Mine & Revolution/Wife


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:53 pm
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Location: S.E. Florida
I had a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with a Yakima kayak rack that held my two kayaks (revolution and Malibu Mini-X) on their sides. They transported well except in windy conditions I had two sails on the top of my SUV that blew me all over the road. I have sinced traded in the Pathfinder to an Xterra and to my dismay it is about 9" higher and at 6'2" quite a reach to get the yaks on the roof from the side. The cost of the roof rack systems just floored me between 160.00 for a rack then up to 150.00 each for a support system that mounts on the racks for each kayak. The rack systems cost as much as a new kayak (not a Hobie but an Ocean or Malibu for example). I finally broke down and bought the Thule Bars and Towers but refused to go beyond that for a kayak support. I now carry two revolutions and this was my solution: 66" Thule bars - wide enough to carry two Outbacks! I use 1" pipe insulation ($12.00 for 2) wrapping the bars and held in place with velcro straps ($15.00 for 6 straps for each bar keeping the wind from blowing them off). I protect the rear liftgate with a quilt and lift the nose of the revolution onto the rooftop with the stern resting on a PFD for protection. I then slide the upright kayak up onto the rack and they slide easliy on their bottom over the pipe insulation - adjust their position on roof rack and strap them down. Reverse procedure to take them down. A one man operation. No need for "J" brackets, rollers or "V" racks. May not be the prettiest of racks but gets the job done and saves alot of $$$$. That $300.00 saved went to the second revolution .... monies better spent. If you want to spend more and look prettier get the pre-made rack pads ranging from 20.00 to 50.00 a pair. Dont buy the rigid foam pads for the bars ,,, they fall off when you try to slide the kayak onto them.

Revo

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A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 6:43 am 
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Location: Rockford, Illinois
I won't bore you with details but don't forget to think about a trailer. I car topped my two Hobies for one week and then bought a Rack and Roll trailer. I have never regretted it. You can buy ones that break down for storage. Some are very inexpensive. Don't have to worry about wind as the vehicle cuts the wind. I don't think you will find anyone who has gone the trailer route that has gone back to car topping.
Just a thought to ponder.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Location: S.E. Florida
BNelsonR,

The kayak trailers are a jewel if you don't mind paying the $1900.00 to $2500.00 price tag. At that price the roof rack and kayak mounts sound cheap at $600.00 combined. Trailers are definitely not for those on a budget. But how sweet to not have to lift one up onto your SUV but then even at 53 it isn't that tough so a trailer is a few years off.

Revo

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I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:35 pm 
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Thanks everyone for your advice - I'm sure I will have more questions in the near future. I'm going to take the plunge and order a revolution and outback on Monday along with an extra long set of bars from thule and see how it goes.

Cheers and thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:28 pm
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I trailer now, but, if I didn't, I'd use this with good racks:

twiceayear made the original loader, but recently biketx2812 of Fort Worth, Texas designed a super heavy duty loader from Hully Rollers, PVC and some glass-installer suction cupsfrom Harbor Freight. Both Original (and howto video) and the new heavy-duty are shown below.

Original
Image
Original
Image

Video of making the Original loader: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBcPgDx5kJY

super heavy duty (ProAngler/Jon Boat) sturdy loader
Image

Clears the airfoil over back windows
Image


Harbor Freight might be out of the suction cup things, but you can try here http://www.amazon.com/Quad-head-Suction-Glass-Window-Puller/dp/B000OYG178/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1243864372&sr=8-1 or other glass shops etc.

since the idea was originally posted, it's amusing to go to the bottom of the amazon page "Customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" and see that peple who bought these also bought kayak cartop saddles, lol I bet glass installers are wondering what the relationship is.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:04 am 
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just wanted to add a comment, I use jumbo pool noodles for pads, I have a slit down them, slide them on the bars just when I need them. They hold the boats really well and no damage. One $5 noodle is good for a season with one yak, would need two for two yaks.

I used them on the 1200 mile round trip journey to j-bay, and they looked as good after the trip as they did before, very durable. If you want them to really last you can heat up all the cuts with a lighter and melt them a little. If you wanted something more permanent, and not so brightly colored you could thread them onto the bars without cutting them, and then thread something like a black fleece sport tube sock over them or get something made.

Neil

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 6:54 pm 
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Thanks for all those tips. I found this subaru roof rack. It's of perrycraft. I don't hear it that often relative to Thule that is why I am kind of curious about it. Although I've read some reviews about it already, first hand experiences are still worth listening. Thanks in advance.


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