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 Post subject: aluminum and stainless
PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:08 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:35 am
Posts: 4
What were they thinking way back then?

The slugs inside the boom which hold the outhaul and wishbone jam cleats are aluminum-
the screws are stainless.
Over the years they have an electron sharing affair and basically do a cold weld and become one.
No way to get them apart but breaking the top of the screw, leaving the slug useless.

Can anyone tell me the proper way to replace these jam cleats and rectify this metallurgical dilema?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:29 pm
Posts: 226
Location: North Bend, WA
I have a 21SE that shares the same boom profile as the 18. I needed to replace the gooseneck "E" clip inside the boom and therefore, needed to remove the boom end cap. When I drilled out the two rivets of the boom end cap I noticed the end cap was also damaged and required me to order a new end cap. While waiting for this part to arrive, I tried to adjust the jam cleats and noticed the same as you. It required an impact srewdriver to finally break the screws. I then did the same for all three and just replaced the screws and nuts and reused the jam cleats. The only way to replace the nuts interior to the boom is to remove the end cap and rerivet.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1053
Location: North Carolina
The slugs are available and inexpensive if the bolts snap. You could soak them in penetrant to dissolve some of the corrosion and bump them loose. The new slugs come with screws.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:35 am
Posts: 4
thanks for the ideas, hobie people, what about finding steel slugs which match with the stainess?
the slugs I have are useless as they have broken off screws stuck in them/


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 7:46 pm
Posts: 1457
Location: Santa Cruz
Here's how I do it. I'll get video next time I actually do the repair.

I mostly use 3 tools when repairing Hobies: A drill with a 3/16" bit, a rivet gun, and a torch.
Try to hit those stainless screws with some heat focused right on the head. If you have line or shock cord in there it will burn, so watch it. Basically get it into your mind that you're going to replace these anyway.
A few more tools. First heat it, then stick a screwdriver on the screw and whack it solidly. I use an impact driver. Usually that does the trick.
If not, just drill off the head and cut your losses.

To get the end cap off, use a 3/16" bit, drill the rivets, heat the extrusion and whack the end cap it lightly with a hammer and screwdriver. Make sure it comes out evenly. Change out the shock cord and outhaul line while you're in there. Don't use that cheap white with black fleck shock cord, it only lasts a year or so. Get the good double stretch black stuff.

Here's the trick. When you put the screws into your new 61711000 (use the aluminum cleats) grease up the screw with Lanocote (or similar). Grease up the end cap with it as well, replace end cap and re-rivet with 8010131.

I view working on the 18 boom as a complete project, just take it all apart and start from scratch. Assess the outhaul bearings, line, shock, cleats, goose neck pin, everything.

Hope that helps.

J


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:35 am
Posts: 4
thanks for these good ideas, i appreciate it


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:33 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 7:46 pm
Posts: 1457
Location: Santa Cruz
No worries.

One caution:
When you pull the outhaul car out of the boom the bearings and pins will come apart and fall on the ground. If you do this repair on the beach, they're gone forever.
Don't ask me how I know... :lol:

Have fun!

J


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