Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Fri Jul 18, 2025 8:43 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:25 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:18 pm
Posts: 2
Hello-

New member here with a question-

I have 2 Hobies - Adventure & Revolution - I have an 09 Subaru Forester with a Thule Rack System and Yakima Hullraiser Aeros.

My question - I normally use 2 tie-downs on each boat when going to the local lakes and rivers. I don't bother tieing down the fore and aft. Next week we're going to Lake Michigan via the interstate. How do you all tie down the bow and stern? The only thing on the boat that I see is the handle for carrying. Am I missing something? Is the handle strong enough?

thanks

emk


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:43 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:33 pm
Posts: 299
Location: Lindale, Texas
When making long hauls, I always tie down the bow and very seldom, the stern, although it should be tied off as well. A great way I learned to tie the bow is to purchase a short length of good webbing (maybe 3/4 to 1 inch wide). Open the hood of your vehicle and somewhere near the corners you should see fender bolts. 1 in each corner. Take a piece of the webbing and double it. On the tag ends make holes that the bolt will pass through. I heated my bolts and melted a hole through both ends. Remove the bolt and pass through both ends of webbing. Replace the bolts with webbing. You will now have a webbing loop that can be used to pass a line through and tie off to the handles.The webbing will easily poke out of the gap at the edge of the hood. When your are not hauling boats, you can open the hood and tuck the loops down and out of the way. I also found that shorter lengths are desireable. Too long, and the webbing loops will buzz at highway speeds. Thanks to Bobby Narramore of High Trails in Dallas for this tip. It works great!

_________________
'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11


Hobie Mirage Classic


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:55 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:18 pm
Posts: 2
Great - this is very helpful!

Where on the boat do you actually attach the line? The only thing that I see in the bow is the carrying handle.

thanks

emk


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:48 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:36 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Rockford, Illinois
The carrying handle is where I have seen them tied to.
I use a trailer for my Sport & Revo. so its not so much an issue as the wind doesn't effect them.

Bruce

_________________
Everything before 60 is just a rehearsal!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:56 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:33 pm
Posts: 299
Location: Lindale, Texas
I have always tied off to the handles. Never had a problem. I don't think there is a lot of lift as I carry my boats upside down.

_________________
'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11


Hobie Mirage Classic


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:33 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:04 pm
Posts: 58
A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow.

That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link!

You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!)

Regards, JimL


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:15 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:33 pm
Posts: 299
Location: Lindale, Texas
JimL wrote:
A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow.

That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link!

You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!)

Regards, JimL


You are correct. The vibration can cause failure easily. The webbibg will begin to tear at stress points. I have used the twisting method and have also tied a string around the midpoint in runs of webbing straps. That will also work to eliminate the vibration. At the very least, it can be greatly annoying.

_________________
'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11


Hobie Mirage Classic


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transporting Kayaks
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:29 pm 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
I like rope. Inexpensive, easy to use. Use loops for quick connect, easy tie off. 8)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 5:20 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:33 pm
Posts: 299
Location: Lindale, Texas
ET Hobie guy wrote:
JimL wrote:
A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow.

That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link!

You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!)

Regards, JimL


You are correct. The vibration can cause failure easily. The webbibg will begin to tear at stress points. I have used the twisting method and have also tied a string around the midpoint in runs of webbing straps. That will also work to eliminate the vibration. At the very least, it can be greatly annoying.


I guess I shouldn't cause alarm by stating vibration can cause failure easily. It just wears on the webbing and will cause it to fray somewhat. The webbing idea I posted above really works great and gives an easily accessible tie off point. Good webbing is very strong.

_________________
'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11


Hobie Mirage Classic


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group