What is the most cost effective system for solo righting?

clymbon,
You are correct. There is no way you will get the boat to come up with the wind blowing on the tramp. You are supposed to point the bows into the wind so that when you begin leaning back the wind gets under the main and up you come. What you were trying to do is right the boat against the wind pushing on the main and forcing your mast back into the water. There is no way you can overcome that much pressure.
I have done this solo dozens of times and crewed even more. Hawaiian system and no bags or poles. If the wind is blowing enough to knock you over, there is enough to right the boat. I cannot emphasize enough that you have to have the bows into the wind, and then the rest is easy. Just 2 weekends ago, I coached a 17 year old at about 170 lbs. I couldn't jump in and help as I was solo myself. He had tried with the bows at about 45 degrees away from the wind and couldn't quite get it. When he walked to the back of the hulls and the boat rotated into the wind he tried again and it came right up. The winds were about 15-18 knots. great day.

I had the bows at about 45 degrees to the wind, which I had been told was the correct angle. (let the debate begin!)

I do understand what you're saying about having the bows into the wind. I used to windsurf. Uphauling and water starting on a windsurfer gives one a very good understanding of the principles. With a water start, you lift the edge of the mast out of the water just enough for the wind to get under and lift the sail out of the water. Then, once you get the sail "floating" on the wind, you straighten your arms to push up on the boom and mast, the wind catches the sail, and lifts your body right out of the water onto the board. (And in my case it then promptly throws me back into the water on the other side, but that's another sad story!)

However, for this to work you actually have to get the mast out of the water just enough for the wind to get under it and start to lift it. So with a hobie it seems to make sense to orient the tramp so that the wind blows on it to provide some additional force in order to get the mast up enough for the wind to start pushing under it. Thus the "bows 45 degrees to the wind" advice makes sense to me.

Also, in this case, the wind was NOT blowing hard enough to knock me over - I had capsized on purpose. So there just wasn't enough wind for it to make much of a difference either way - there's no way I was getting that boat up without some additional mass or leverage.

Clearly, I need to practice again with some decent wind blowing. However, I just bought at righting bucket, so just in case I do go over in light winds, I'll be able to right it solo.

Duncan

Correct, in light air (6 m/h) there is not much of a chance for a capsize. In over 15 m/h wind I (165 lbs) can right with just the Hawaiian system or some rope attached to the upper hull. For those mild days where you spaced out or you were not able to ease the main fast enough you might want some system that will help you right solo. The water bags are one alternative. Another method would be a righting pole attached to the inside lip of your lower hull on one side and suspended from the pylons on the other end. My righting pole is made from the upper part of a two part windsurfing mast. Those tend to fail right around the connection to the lower part. Typically there is at least a 6 to 7 foot section of undamaged mast left that no one seems to need. Interestingly enough, the 75% to 100% carbon masts seem to fail more often - allowing you to make your own low $ carbon righting spar. The last one I made has a paddle shaped area that fits into the hull lip. The whole spar looks essentially like a SUP paddle and can also be used for that purpose (try that with a water bag) total weight is under 1Kg and it stores under the tramp (between the two rear pylons)

hey Yoh,
Would love to see what that looks like. Any chance to post a pic of it? At 150 lbs, I have been looking for something like that, since I have never been able to right my H-16, without the aid of a friendly powerboat to lift the mast tip out of the lake. Really interesting ...

I asked this in a new thread, but the experts seem to be here...

I've always thrown a rope up over the skyward hull - I've never been able to right the boat. In pics I've seen recently - I always see the righting line UNDER the skyward hull? and wondered if this is my problem. I'll try the line under the hull next time. Has anyone compared the difference? OVER the hull would really change the pivot point and would make the pull come fromm a much higher (less effective angle - as I see it in my head). Reading this thread - someone is still talking about throwing the line over the hull and I haven't seen anyone correct him for this yet?

It's winter here - but would love to hear the difference - if someone can try it. (in the warmer climates)

Logic says BOWS into the wind... the idea would be for the wind to come at the sail (it will get under the mast/sail to help lift the boat, a sail being much more help than wind at a tiny tramp area.

And once righted the bow/sail will be into the wind, helping the boat stall a bit before taking off (with you in the water).

I believe the Hawaiian righting lines can only be accessed by pulling under the hull. I think over the hull may give more leverage, but probably not significantly. For most of us solo righting the real issue is weight. A righting bag works and stores easily. it also acts as an anchor, while you check over the boat and get the rigging squared away. It seems to be true that if you have enough wind and point the boat properly, you can right it. But you can't alway count on the wind.

_________________
Alfred
'87 H16 Sail 89907
If you aren't sailing on the edge, you're taking up too much room.