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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:43 pm 
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
Why can't I figure this one out. I have the Harken Micro Fiddle Block (two pullies, V Jam p# H244), another single block and line.
What part of the Fiddle block connects to the trap wire if one end has the line knot?
Do I somehow use the "extra" pulley on the Fiddle block? Which way does the "V" orient up or down. Mind bending.
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:47 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
You talking about this system?
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:37 pm 
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Nope, thanks for the pic, very clear and informative but too complicated for me :)

http://murrays.com/archive/archive.html#anchor73592
Page 8, Set up A only using the V block in the lower right of the page. So hard without ability to post pics..

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:40 pm 
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divimon2000 wrote:
Nope, thanks for the pic, very clear and informative but too complicated for me :)

http://murrays.com/archive/archive.html#anchor73592
Page 8, Set up A only using the V block in the lower right of the page. So hard without ability to post pics..

Thanks.


I have no idea what you're referring to. Trapeze rigs are on page 49 of the catalog.

Why don't you call Murray's and ask them?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:56 pm 
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
I see, wrong link. Hobie catalog page 8
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/media/pdf/eSail_2009-10_6-9.pdf

Page 8, Set up A only using the V block in the lower right of the page.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:31 pm 
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It isn't brain surgery to post pictures:
Image

First problem is that the large picture of the block on the lower right is not the same one used in the trapeze system - it's a Harken 244, and the block in the upper photo is an RWO 4960. The RWO block has a single sheave and a becket for the line attachment.

However, that doesn't preclude the Harken 244 from being used as a replacement for the RWO block.

Just use the lower sheave to attach the line. Shackle end of the block attaches to the existing trap wire. V-jam has the point of the V pointing up so that when you're on the wire, pulling down, it pulls out of the cleat (you can't pull up with enough strength to adjust while you're on the wire).


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:31 am 
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Thanks for the description, I'm on it.
It is brain surgery for me, if there isn't a button that says "upload picture" it's too complicated.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:45 pm
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Skip the adjustable mess and just use the dogbone handles. The type with two stainless rings, and a bar in the middle. Use the top ring when its lighter, or gusty. Use the bottom ring the rest of the time. Its a super simple hi/lo system.

I've also ditched the block on the end of the trapeze wire. Dyneema/spectra is slippery enough that it slides through the thimble pretty easily.

My next plan is to ditch the rope locks, and just make a small stopper from UMHW that goes on the return line. to set the height. I've also seen the sister clips used for attaching the bungee to the trapeze line. I'm pretty sure you could just plice a loop in one end for the clip, and splice another loop in the opposite end of the line for the dogbone. It'd be super clean, and you're not dragging around anything extra that isn't needed. The last thing a boat needs to be is uneccessarily complicated.


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