Art of tacking H16

I agree with J_eaton

I solo mostly in a lake. As I turn to weather I let out the main sheet a little and start the tack. When main sail is neutral, I change sides and move the tiller. By then the back of the jib is full and i pop it across and sheet it in loosely. I then go back and start sheeting in the main.

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Alfred
'87 H16 Sail 89907
If you aren't sailing on the edge, you're taking up too much room.

have been keeping main sheet in start turn release jib, boat comes through eye of wind jib starts to fill switch sides set jib adjust main hows that sound

release the jib once your completely sure your going to make the tack. I find the jib is a big part of what actually gets the boat to tack. Also release your main as you come thru the wind. If you dont, not always, but the main if too far in can prevent you from fully tacking

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1971 H16 (sail #1768)

To all of you on the Hobie Forum... I love you guys!!!
thanks for all the help!

From Hobie U
Anatomy of a Tack
Rick White‘s Roll Tack, Illustrated by Bob Mimlitch

1. If not close hauled, come up to a close hauled course (traveler in and main sheeted hard).
2. Insure your speed is up prior to initiating a tack. Don‘t pinch.
3. Insure you are clear of traffic and will remain clear during your tack.
4. Alert the crew and await their response indicating that they are Ready to tack.
5. Push the tiller smoothly and move to the rear windward corner.
6. Crew moves to the rear, uncleats and holds the jib while removing slack from the lazy sheet.
7. As the jib starts to luff, feed out sheet and fly the jib across keeping it flowing as it goes.
8. At the same time the crew takes the lazy sheet and moves across and forward sheeting the jib.
9. As the boat comes head to wind the skipper releases 2 feet of main sheet (more for unirigs).
10. Continue increasing the rudder angle and turn beyond the desired new course.
11. Straighten the rudders, pass the tiller across, move across and forward taking excess sheet.
12. Foot to accelerate and trim the sails.
13. Shift gears (with sail shape) as you accelerate and come up to optimum course.
14. Balance the boat and take care of general housekeeping.

From Hobie U
Anatomy of a Gybe
by Bob Mimlitch

1. Insure your speed is up prior to initiating a gybe.
2. Insure you are and will remain clear of traffic during the gybe.
3. Alert the crew and insure that you get a response.
4. Move in and pull the tiller smoothly.
5. Skipper moves to the opposite side and grabs the tiller outside the main sheet.
6. Crew moves to the opposite side and catches jib on opposite side by sheet or clew.
7. The skipper grabs the main sheets below the boom and pulls against the sail.
8. The crew trims the jib by pulling on the leech which give the boat power.
9. As the pressure on the main sail gets light, alert the crew and swing the main sail across.
10. Continue the turn until above the optimum course.
11. Trim and match your sails.
12. Shift gears (with sail shape) as you accelerate and come down to optimum course.
13. Balance the boat per conditions.
14. Pull daggers, rudder, etc. as desired.

tacking in strong winds is ( 20 kt around there) impossible

1. If not close hauled, come up to a close hauled course (traveler in and main sheeted hard).
2. Insure your speed is up prior to initiating a tack. Don‘t pinch.
3. Insure you are clear of traffic and will remain clear during your tack.
4. Alert the crew and await their response indicating that they are Ready to tack.
5. Push the tiller smoothly and move to the rear windward corner.
6. Crew moves to the rear, uncleats and holds the jib while removing slack from the lazy sheet.
7. As the jib starts to luff, feed out sheet and fly the jib across keeping it flowing as it goes.
8. At the same time the crew takes the lazy sheet and moves across and forward sheeting the jib.
9. As the boat comes head to wind the skipper releases 2 feet of main sheet (more for unirigs).
10. Continue increasing the rudder angle and turn beyond the desired new course.
11. Straighten the rudders, pass the tiller across, move across and forward taking excess sheet.
12. Foot to accelerate and trim the sails.
13. Shift gears (with sail shape) as you accelerate and come up to optimum course.
14. Balance the boat and take care of general housekeeping.

AS YOU COME INTO THE EYE OF THE WIND TURN ON YOUR JOHNSON OUTBOARD TO POWER IT THROUGH THE TURN
Image

I just got Rick Whites Sailing Seminar DVDs and let's just say my mind has officially been blown. They tack sooooooo quick and smooth, that it looks like everything I've been doing for the past three years is wrong, wrong, wrong! They have it down to a science and make it look so natural that it really is better to watch it and see how really good cat sailors do it. I can't wait to get back on the boat to try and emulate what I've seen. I'd recommend getting the Dvd or see if a sailor friend of yours has one to borrow. I got mine on Amazon for $90 ( five VHS on one DVD) it ain't cheap but I'm convinced it's worth it! Good luck!

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152

for 90 bucks i will jibe or put it in reverse - hope they help you- calm to moderate I have no prob- its the heaver winds i just cant get i through the eye consistently

I sail mostly H18's, which are easier to tack.
However, I have also 'blown' many tacks in an H18.

The Rick White DVD is AMAZING, I had to watch their tacking about 18 times before I realized how smooooooooth they were - they keep the jib 'flowing' all the way through the turn. I have learnt not to shout at my crew, at least, if I want to stay married. She does understand what we're trying to do, so more practice is required.

H16's are a little different due to their hull shape, so the boat trim comes into play even more.

Next week, we're playing with bigger toys, a week in the BVI's on a Lagoon 440. I'll let you know how well they tack!

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Just a little thing on which sail to pull in first. When you finish the tack pulling the jib first will push you bow away from the wind and pulling in your main will pull you towards the wind (atleast on a monohull) due to the effects of CE and CLR. So you should pull in your jib first so one you wont get headed up into irons and 2 you can straighten out a little sooner.

I prefer using the jib to help pull bows across, I crank in main and jib. As I start tacking I release plenty main sheet quickly when close to head to wind, as jib starts to fill, I or crew slowly release jib, don't let it fly. When battens pop, I pull in the jib slowly - once filled and pulling then I sheet in main quickly.

In hectic wind with waves, I tack in between waves in the trough, less wind down there.

What works for us in hectic wind is to crank in main and jib. Seems illogical but after working that out we only blow a tack now based on impatience/frustration.

It seems everyone has their own secret... I don't usually do anything with my main prior to tacking, leave both cleated.. sometimes I'll let the main out a little... gently turn the tiller, flip it around, move to the other side and guide the main across, giving a nice push if needed to get the battons to pop... then haul in the main and uncleat the jib... if you have 8+ winds, it will pop over on it's own.. light wind, you may need to jump up there and give it a pull to get it across without hanging up on the halyard.

Gybe... heh.. turn, duck, move your butt!

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1982 H16 (C:\Worthy)
Yellow/White Prism type sails