Some drivewell cracks can be repaired if you're reasonably handy. Here's an example of one that can:
First you need to make a small thin disk out of scrap Polyethylene to fit over the crack. It has to be thin enough for the Drive to still fit with no side-to side rocking. When finished it looks like this:
Next you need to get some epoxy that actually works on Poly. Gflex is a waste of money for this purpose. Either 3M Scotchweld DP 8010 or Loctite 3030 (both available from industrial suppliers) will work fine. Read the instructions carefully. Here's what 3030 looks like (DP 8010 is very similar) and here's two sample disks that were glued together -- I broke one trying to separate them.
What this does is seals the leak, stabilizes the crack and spreads the load over a larger area. For further reinforcement, you can make another batch of the same epoxy and reinforce the nose of the drivewell from inside the hull. Pictured here is an old fiberglass patch from Hobie but you can just build up a layer of glue here instead (be sure and wear double latex disposable gloves when handling these products).
Both glues have structural properties and will further strengthen this area. I've used both in either the drivewell or cam columns with excellent success.
Note: all the Mirage drivewells were reinforced in this area beginning with the 2007 models (soon after the Turbofins came out) with a brass insert and more plastic.
Obviously Hobie's warranty process would be your first choice -- this should be a back up measure only. How long this can extend the life of your boat depends on the nature and size of the crack and your frequency and harshness of use.
Login
Register
FAQ
